The Quilted Cube Case is a sturdy bag that measures about 9 inches square, with a divided slip pocket on the inside and a single strap that attaches via swivel clips to the top.
Lately, I’ve been experimenting with bag designing – you may have seen some of the prototypes on Instagram. This is the culmination of prototype #3, which I felt was best suited for a full tutorial.
- 3/4″ Swivel Clips (2)
- 3/4″ D-Rings (2)
- 19″ Zipper
- 1.5 yards of Pellon 1-Sided Fusible Flex-Foam
- 3 yards of Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex interfacing
- Exterior and lining fabrics (see below)
Pellon was so kind to share some yardage from the new line of Fusible Flex-Foam, and I used the 1-sided fusible to make this bag. Full review will come later, but I can say that I was really impressed with the performance! I wrongly assumed that the fusible foam stabilizer would be exactly like the original sew-in type except with dots of glue on one side. That was not the case.
From the Flex-Foam, you will also need to cut out the following pieces:
- 10.5″ x 21″
- 10.5″ x 23.5″
- 5″ x 19.5″ (cut 2)
The reason the exterior pieces are cut slightly larger is to account for the distortion in size when you quilt them. Later on, you will trim all of these pieces down.
Fuse the Pellon SF101 interfacing pieces to ALL exterior and lining fabrics, plus to one of the slip pocket sides.
Then place the zipper face down onto the right side of one of the top gusset pieces. It’s helpful to glue baste the zipper tape to the fabric in lieu of pins. Sew the zipper to the fabric – you may need to use a zipper foot to get fairly close to the teeth, but the walking foot on my Janome Horizon 7700 worked fine for me. My seam allowance was shy of 1/4 inch.
Here’s how I fused the Pellon Flex-Foam to the top gusset pieces – by placing the foam (shiny side down!) on the fabric just past where the zipper tape ends. Then I flipped them over so the fabric was on top – and ironed them on.
Despite there also being a layer of SF101 between the fabric and Flex-Foam, fusing created a strong bond with no issues.
To quilt the top and bottom gusset pieces, I spaced out straight lines one inch apart. Others use a quilting guide bar attachment for a walking foot, but that just hasn’t worked for me. The method that has yielded the best results for me is marking out lines with an air soluble pen and ruler.
For the top gusset panel, be sure to leave at least a 1/2 inch clearance on each short end past the zipper. If you don’t do this – you will have a heck of a time sewing over the zipper teeth – especially if it’s metal!
Then mark the center of each piece with a small line – this will make construction much easier later on.
We’re going to take an intermission and make the strap tabs now.
Center the interfacing onto the fabric and fuse both pieces.
Fold each long side in half an inch, and press.
Sew each strap tab to the top gusset using the lines as a guide. The strap tab’s outside edge should butt up against the line running perpendicular to the zipper. The center should be right on the line parallel to the zipper.
Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, connect the top and bottom gusset pieces.
Line up the top and bottom center marks and clip/pin working your way from the middle out to the ends of the square main panel.
Use a 3/8 inch seam allowance and sew the top and bottom sides first – stopping 3/8 inch from each end.
Clip/pin the sides and repeat sewing – stopping right at the previous stitch lines. When finished, you should have sewn a complete line around the entire perimeter of each square.
At this point, the bag exterior is finished.
Flip the pieces right sides out, press, and stitch an 1/8 inch from the top edge.
Starting at the bottom, stitch up to the top – then pivot your needle and sew right back to where you started. This creates a more reinforced divider that shouldn’t come loose over time. (Yes, that has happened to my bag pockets before)
To attach the lining at the zipper, I would definitely recommend using clips instead of pins. The lining fabric should be positioned just inside the zipper teeth. For this portion, I used the techniques found in this Swoon Patterns tutorial for drop-in lining attachment.
For me, this is always the most difficult part of bag construction. Go slowly and don’t be afraid to really manhandle the bag to get it into the right spot on your sewing machine.
When finished, it should look like this.
On each short end, I folded in about 1/2 an inch and glue basted.
Lengthwise, fold fabric in half – then fold each side in half again toward the center. Glue baste. (I do love glue basting, it is true…)
Pop open a bottle of Champagne to celebrate!!! Okay, that last step is certainly optional – but after all that hard work you deserve some fanfare!
I designed the Quilted Cube Case because I like the unique square shape. It would certainly be a great conversation starter when you’re out and about, and I could see it being an adorable overnight bag for a younger girl.
Go ahead and tag @MooreApproved on Instagram or Twitter with the hashtags #MooreApproved and #QuiltedCubeCase.
Hope you enjoyed this tutorial!